The history of the women's tuxedo is the history of changing social norms and the fight for freedom of expression. A symbol of status and confidence, the tuxedo did not immediately become an iconic item in the women's wardrobe.
The pioneer of the tuxedo in a female image is considered to be the actress Dorothy Mackail, who appeared in this suit back in 1927 in the film "The Crystal Goblet".
But Marlene Dietrich attracted special attention to a woman in a men's suit, wearing a tuxedo in the film "Morocco" in 1930. The actress not only shocked the public, but also forever changed the idea of femininity, appearing on screen in patent leather shoes, a formal jacket and a hat.
This image caused a storm of indignation: society was sure that it was indecent for a woman to wear men's clothing. But it quickly became clear that the public was ready for such images in the context of cinema.
However, in real life, tuxedos on women remained a rarity for a long time. It was more of a theatrical image, the personification of rebellion, than part of an everyday wardrobe.
The situation began to change after World War II, when the concept of women's and men's wardrobes began to blur.
The turning point occurred in 1966, thanks to the French designer Yves Saint Laurent, who presented his famous women's tuxedo to the public. Saint Laurent offered women a stylish, silhouette-accentuating jacket, created specifically for the female body, but retaining all the elegance of a man's outfit.
But in the world, this new product was initially met with a cool reception - the luxurious clients of design houses did not initially appreciate Saint Laurent's boldness. But as soon as the tuxedo became available in the Rive Gauche ready-to-wear line, its popularity increased at lightning speed.
The tuxedo quickly became a favorite among strong and influential women of the era, including Charlotte Rampling and Catherine Deneuve. It was the latter who became one of the first ambassadors of Le Smoking, noting that the tuxedo "looks masculine and feminine at the same time." The women's tuxedo became a symbol of independence and strength - an outfit in which a woman could be elegant, but at the same time decisive and self-confident.
Since the 60s, the tuxedo has taken a special place in the women's wardrobe, becoming a symbol of the second wave of feminism and the fight for gender equality. A tuxedo on a woman meant defending the right to independence, freedom of choice and individuality.
Now this item of clothing was no longer associated exclusively with men, but became a symbol of a new era, where a woman can be different - from classic and elegant to daring and bold.
Source:
vogue.ua
elle.no
